How Should a Bra Fit? Five Checks You Can Do at Home

How should a bra fit? Firm round the back, smooth across the cups, and comfortable enough that you forget about it by lunchtime.

Most of the support comes from the band rather than the straps. That is why a loose band causes more of the problems we see than anything else.

We fit bras every day in our lingerie department in Shaftesbury. These are the checks our fitters make first, and you can do every one of them at home in front of a mirror. It takes about two minutes.

At a glance

• The band sits level and feels firm on the loosest hook
• The cups hold all of you, with no gaps and no spilling over
• The centre panel lies flat against your breastbone
• Wires sit behind the breast, and straps stay put without digging in
• Two or three warning signs together mean it is time to be measured again

• How should a bra fit round the band?
• The cups: no gaps, no spilling
• The centre, the wires and the straps
• How do you know if a bra fits?
• Where to get a bra fitting in Shaftesbury
• Frequently asked questions

How should a bra fit round the band?

Start at the back, because that is where most of the support comes from. The band should run level all the way round, at the same height as the front.

If it rides up between your shoulder blades, it is too loose, and your straps end up carrying the weight instead. That is where sore shoulders usually come from.

A new bra should fit on the loosest hook. Bands stretch with wear and washing, so the tighter hooks are there for later in its life.

Try this. Slide two fingers under the band at the back. They should go in, but only just.

If the band feels right and the cups do not, the answer may be a different size rather than a different bra. A smaller band needs a larger cup letter to hold the same amount, which surprises a lot of people.

The cups: no gaps, no spilling

Look at the top edge of the cup first. It should lie smoothly against you, with no ridge where you spill over and no gap where the fabric stands away.

Spilling over the top or out at the side means the cup is too small. Wrinkles and empty space can point the other way, though often the shape is simply wrong for you.

Shape matters as much as the letter. A full cup bra covers and holds more of the breast, which is why we keep the Charnos Rosalind in several colours. It sits smoothly under a fitted top.

Before you judge the cups, lean forward and scoop each breast into the cup from the side. Then stand up and look again. A bra that seemed too small often fits once everything is in the right place.

The centre, the wires and the straps

In an underwired bra, the small panel between the cups should lie flat against your breastbone. If it lifts away, the cups are usually too small.

The wire should sit behind the breast tissue, following the crease underneath and finishing near your underarm. It should never rest on the breast or dig in at the side.

Wires poking through the fabric are a different matter. That bra is at the end of its life, and no amount of adjusting will put it right.

You do not have to wear wires at all. The Triumph Doreen is a wire-free full cup with a long following, and its support comes from the cut and a deep band.

Straps are there to steady the cups, not to hold you up. Adjust them so they lie flat without slipping, with room for a finger underneath. Red grooves at the end of the day usually point back to a loose band.

How do you know if a bra fits? The signs it does not

Some problems show in the mirror straight away. Others only appear after a full day of wear.

• The band has ridden up at the back by the afternoon
• You keep pulling the straps back onto your shoulders
• There is a line across the top of the cup under a fitted top
• The wire digs in when you sit down
• You are already on the tightest hook

One of these is worth a second look. Two or three together usually mean it is time to be measured again. Sizes change with weight, age and hormones more often than people expect.

Where to get a bra fitting in Shaftesbury

If you are still unsure how your bra should fit, the quickest answer is to let someone fit you. In our lingerie department it is free, and you do not need to book.

Our fitters are fully trained and have been doing this here for years. Shirley still does a fitting herself when she can.

Come in any time we are open, Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 5pm, at 30 High Street. We will measure you, then bring a few styles to try, so you can feel the difference rather than take our word for it.

Shopping from further away? Our bras can be filtered by band and cup, and our Fantasie fitting guide goes into fuller cup sizes in more detail.

See our bras

Frequently asked questions

How should a bra fit correctly?

A bra that fits correctly sits level all the way round, with the band firm on the loosest hook. The cups hold all of you smoothly, with no gaps at the top and no spilling over the edge. In an underwired bra, the centre panel lies flat against your breastbone and the wire sits behind the breast, not on it. The straps stay put without leaving grooves in your shoulders. If one of these is off, change one thing at a time, starting with the band.

How do I know if my bra is too small?

The usual signs are spilling over the top or out at the side of the cup, a centre panel that lifts away from your breastbone, and wires that dig in at the side. A band that feels tight on the loosest hook can also mean it is too small. Before you decide, lean forward and scoop each breast into the cup, then look again. If it still spills, try the next cup size up, and keep the band the same.

Should a new bra fit on the loosest hook?

Yes. A new bra should feel firm on the loosest hook, because the band relaxes with wear and washing. The tighter hooks are there so you can take the band in as that happens and keep the support where it should be. If a new bra only feels secure on the tightest hook, the band is too big, and it will be loose within a few months.

How often should I get a bra fitting?

Every year or so is a sensible habit, and sooner if your weight changes, after pregnancy, or when a bra that used to fit stops feeling right. Sizes change more often than most people expect, and brands vary too, so a fitting is worth having whenever you buy a new style. At our shop it takes a few minutes, it is free and you do not need to book.

Do I need to book a bra fitting at Shirley Allum?

No. Bra fitting in our lingerie department is free and you do not need an appointment. Come into 30 High Street, Shaftesbury, any time we are open, Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 5pm. One of our trained fitters will measure you and bring a few styles to try, so you can feel the difference for yourself. If you have a question first, ring us on 01747 852444.